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The comprehensive guide to travel in the Himalayas

Sunday, May 11, 2014

Travel guide to Bara Mangwa – an idyllic getaway in Darjeeling Himalayas part 3

The land of blue mountains and green rivers—How to reach, where to stay and local attractions

Location & Description

Bara Mangwa is a small village in the hills of Darjeeling district of West Bengal, India. In local Lepcha language the name Bara Mangwa translates to the big (“Bara”) land of finger millets. A neighbouring settlement is Chhota Mangwa - meaning the small (“Chhota”) land of finger millets. The hill is also sometimes referred to as the Mangwa hills.

The hills of Mangwa are characterized by forest covers, terrace farming and orange orchards. Winding trails offers excellent opportunity to explore the area on foot at one’s own pace.
Bara Mangwa - Lone hill-tracks
Lone hill-tracks
The village lies on the eastern slopes directly facing the hills of Kalimpong and Dello on the other side. River Teesta flows along the valley in between. On clear days, a panoramic view towards North unveils a series of mountain folds visible all the way up to Nathu La pass in Sikkim. The hill town of Darjeeling lies around 40 kilometers towards West.
The major railway junction of New Jalpaiguri near Siliguri and the airport of Bagdogra are approximately two and half hours drive away towards South, well connected by fairly good roads.  
Bara Mangwa - Folds of the Himalayan range
Folds of the Himalayan range

How to reach

New Jalpaiguri and Bagdogra are respectively the nearest major railway station and airport for Bara Mangwa and also the hills of Darjeeling and Sikkim. Tourists can take rented vehicles from here.
Travelling for 25 kilometers North on the National Highway 31/31C through tea plantations and Mahananda Wildlife Santuary in the foothills, one reaches Sevok. This is the place where one gets the first glimpse of river Teesta and also the start of the hill roads. From this point onwards, Teesta always gives company as the winding road climbs up the mountain on its left bank.
Soon the road passes the Coronation Bridge on the right and the highway becomes NH 31A. About 29 kilometers further North on the same route takes one to Teesta Bazar. This is a small town on the bank of river Teesta. One has to continue straight through the town passing the Teesta Bridge on the right. Crossing the bridge to the other side of Teesta would have taken one towards Kalimpong. 
One now has to keep an eye for a narrower road going towards Bara Mangwa rising up steeply on the left from the main road. Destination is reached after approximately five kilometres uphill along this route through villages, terrace farms, forests and fairly sharp hairpin bends.
Tourists coming from Darjeeling, can travel upto Ghoom, then take a left turn towards Jore Bunglow. Via this route one has to cross Takdah, Tinchuley and Chhota Mangwa and finally reach Bara Mangwa.   
Darjeeling - Road through pine forests
Road through pine forests

Where to stay

The two main places to stay at Bara Mangwa are the Bara Mangwa Farmhouse and the Darjeeling Blossom Ecotourism Complex. We had stayed in the Farmhouse.
Web presences:
Bara Mangwa Farmhouse:         Google+, Facebook
Darjeeling Blossom Ecotourism Complex: Website
We did not find any eateries for day visitors. For tourists staying at the Farmhouse however, excellent meals of preset menu are available at reasonable prices. These include early morning tea, followed by a generous helping of breakfast, a hearty lunch, enjoyable evening snacks and a fitting dinner. We heard that the Ecotourism Complex has similar facilities for their boarders too.
Bara Mangwa Farmhouse -  Here comes the morning tea
Here comes the morning tea – at the Farmhouse

Best time to visit Bara Mangwa

The so-called tourist season to visit Bara Mangwa is from October to early March. However the best time would be around November-December when the orange orchards are in their full glory. Weather is also generally good during this time. We however felt that Bara Mangwa can offer its beauties in all seasons giving pleasure to visitors looking for varied experiences.
 Spring Bloom
Spring Bloom

 What to see and do at Bara Mangwa

The primary attraction of Bara Mangwa is the solitude of an idyllic getaway from the hustle and bustle of a busy life. If one wants to relax for a few days and do nothing but spend leisurely hours amidst the folds of the lower Himalayas, this location is definitely a good choice.
Bara Mangwa Farmhouse - The grand balcony
Relaxing evening at the Farmhouse Cottage balcony among the blue mountains
As a bonus, for the enthusiastic ones there are small treks through the winding hill tracks right in the back yard where one gets to explore the wonders of a light forest with all its wonderful flora and fauna, go bird watching, make friends with the friendly locals and get a feel of their way of living.   
Bara Mangwa Farmhouse - Exploring the forest in the backyard on foot
Exploring the forest in the backyard on foot
If one wants to a be a little more adventurous, there is the option of going for white water rafting on the river Teesta in the valley below or try rock climbing on the rock faces along the mountain trails. Experts in Bara Mangwa Farmhouse offer training on rock climbing to beginners as well.
Bara Mangwa - River rafting on Teesta
Riding the rapids of green river Teesta
In November to February, a visit to the orange orchards is also of interest. Bird life is in plenty during this time. On clear days, a short hike gives a good view of the Kanchenjunga peaks too.
Certain NGOs are quite active here in promoting ecotourism, conservation and social betterment for the local population. Visitors with inclination to support such good causes can experience these activities first hand as well.
Bara Mangwa - Transporting Harvest
Transporting harvest

Places of tourist interest near Bara Mangwa

A popular circuit for tourists in the Mangwa hills is Bara Mangwa – Chhota Mangwa – Tinchuley. This route can be covered in a day. Tinchuley, around 10 kilometers away is well known for its magnificent pine forest, view of the mighty Kanchenjunga peaks and sun rise points. Tourists can stay in Tinchuley as well and visit Bara Mangwa for the day.
Tinchuley - Pine forest
Pine forest
A couple of tea gardens and the confluence of river Teesta and river Rangeet are also within a 10-12 kilometer distance from Bara Mangwa and are worth visiting.
One can also take day trips to the much larger towns of Kalimpong and Dello or Darjeeling.
During our day trip to Darjeeling form Bara Mangwa, we wanted to get a taste of the famed narrow gauge Darjeeling Himalayan railways too. So we had pre-booked first class tickets on this train from Ghoom to Darjeeling. We had started from the Farmhouse in our car at six in the morning and reached Ghoom at around 8:30 am. We had a quick tour at the nearby tourist attraction of Batasia Loop rail track at Ghoom and came to the station in time to catch the train coming from Kursheong en route to Darjeeling. We had requested the driver of our rented car to follow us and join us at Darjeeling railway station so that we could continue our excursion for the rest of our day journey.  This added a nice extra to our bag full of good memories which we carried back from our Bara Mangwa trip.
Darjeeling Himalayan Rail – at Ghoom (Ghum) station
Darjeeling Himalayan Rail – at Ghoom (Ghum) station

Parting words

Bara Mangwa is not one of those grand awe inspiring travel destinations which dots the entire range of the Himalayan range. Blown up photographs of its landscape are not likely to adorn many walls. But the place feels like a good old friend. With its open arms it makes you feel not like a tourist from outside but rather a part of it. It charms you with its simplicity and subtle beauties. And like a few more such isolated hill stations in this part of the land, it gives you the freedom to relax in the comfort of the cottages with great views or get immersed in the wilderness around.
May be that is where the magic lies…
Bara Mangwa - Simple beauties
Simple beauties
Related reads:

Panorama from Bara Mangwa Farmhouse
Panorama from Bara Mangwa Farmhouse

Thursday, May 8, 2014

Travel Guide for Dharamshala—the beautiful Himachal, majestic Himalayas part 12



More on Dharamshala—beautiful Himachal

Standing on the rooftop of his house at Dharamshala my friend dispelled my doubts regarding tourist worthiness of Dharamshala, “Don’t underestimate this place as a tourist spot. In fact this is one of the major tourist destinations in Himachal. Look at the Dhauladhar. You won’t get such a close view from the comfort of your room from many other places.” I had to agree. Though the view taken was through medium zoom, even then it looked very close as if I could touch it.

Dharamshala, Himachal Pradesh Himalayas - Dhauladhar at touching distance
Dhauladhar at touching distance
At normal view itself the high elevation makes Dhauladhar looking down to you. Later in front of his house I stood looking at it wondering, perhaps I could place a reclining chair here lounging lazily with a book and occasionally looking up at the majestic view in front of me. Here, the heavenly Dhauladhar will always be there cradling the fortunate little men. I felt a tinge of envy towards my friend.
Dharamshala, Himachal Pradesh Himalayas - Dhauladhar always be there cradling
Always be there cradling
My friend continued, “See over there—that is the International cricket stadium where IPL matches are hosted and remember—altitude of this place is near about 5000 feet. Add to that McLeodGanj where Dalai Lama had relocated his official residence. It is an international tourist attraction; and McLeod Ganj is actually a suburb of Dharamshala a little further up the hills.” “But still, excluding Dhauladhar these are kind of civilization attractions, isn’t it? You can say Dharamshala is a sprawling sparsely populated town under the shadows of Dhauladhar.” I was relentless. My preferences are always with pure nature.
My friend shook his head, “No, you may very well undertake more than one trekking trips from here, you know. And forests? Though the tree cover has thinned over the years, still Dharamshala has some good tree covers around it. While coming, you had stopped at one such stretch.” Well yes, I remembered. That was a good spot. Dhauladhar looked absolutely majestic over the tall tree tops. I really didn’t expect such a breathtaking view after a relatively dreary drive from Jammu.
Dharamshala, Himachal Pradesh Himalayas - breathtaking Dhauladhar
Breathtaking Dhauladhar
This is but natural. Dharamshala is an old place. When it grew, ground was cleared to build accommodations. But even when we visited three years ago, it was not a crowded city. The relatively wide expanse helped.

On one side of the house of my friend was uninterrupted cropland with no visible human habitation. Multistoried buildings could be seen only on the low gently sloping hills further away. This place is large with undulating hills and valleys. It is difficult to imagine upper Dharamshala ever becoming crowded in future.
Dharamshala, Himachal Pradesh Himalayas - open cropland and low hills
Open cropland and low hills
Dharamshala was important once, lost the prominence in between, but again regained it now. It is the district headquarters and also the Tibetan center. It has the only airport in this region. Naturally it would grow, but having the expanse and multiple suitable locations at various altitudes, it is growing without diminishing its natural beauty much.

At last when I said, “Okay I agree. I think there will be enough for me to request your hospitality in future,” my friend smiled.
Location & Description
Dharamshala is under Kangra district of Himachal Pradesh in the western Himalayas. It is about 18 kms from Kangra and is its district headquarters. Its name originated from a pilgrim’s resting place situated on the way to Dhauldhar.
Over the years it has grown to a city that is spread out in the upper reaches of long and beautiful Kangra valley. Though it has an operational airport with daily flights from Delhi, an international cricket stadium and modern market place in lower Dharamshala, it still is surrounded by relatively dense forests of Deodar and Oak in its outskirts.
The snow range of Dhauladhar surrounds the valley adding grandeur to it. The nearness of Dhauladhar lends Dharamsala with the unique distinction of being the only hill-station in India from which one can access the snowline in a day’s trek.
How to reach
To Dharamshala by Road
Being a major city and hill-station in Himachal Pradesh, by road you can reach Dharamshala by bus or by car from many cities in North India such as Pathankot, Jammu, Chandigarh, Delhi, Amritsar, Manali, Shimla or Chamba.
Pathankot to Dharamshala by road
By Pathankot Mandi road it is about 95 kms to Dharamshala from Pathankot and the road condition being generally good it should take you about two hours to reach Dharamshala by car. Himachal State Transport buses and taxis for hire are available at Pathankot.
Jammu to Dharamshala by road
From Jammu to Pathankot it would be NH-1A, rest you know—total distance would be about 200 kms. NH-1A being a national highway average speed on this stretch should be higher and you should be able to reach Dharamshala by about three and a half hours by car. We had traveled this way. You would also get regular bus service for Dharamshala from Jammu.
Chandigarh to Dharamshala by road
You can approach Dharamshala from Chandigarh also as it is about 250 kms and four and half hours drive away by car. That is comfortable as the way is mostly along national highways. You would get Haryana State Transport buses from Chandigarh as well as cars for hire.
New Delhi to Dharamshala by road
It is a long drive of 500 to 550 kms from New Delhi to Dharamshala that would take you nine to nine and a half hours by car. There is not much point in wasting so much time traveling through the plains when your destination is a prime hill-station in the Himalayas unless under special conditions. You would get regular bus services from New Delhi to Dharamshala.
Amritsar to Dharamshala by road
Amritsar and Jammu are nearly at similar distances of about 200 km by road from Dharamshala. To come from Amritsar you need to take first NH-15 and then from Pathankot take Pathankot Mandi route as before. It should take you three and half hours by car.
Manali to Dharamshala by road
Shorter route is by NH-21 and then Highway 154 through Naggar, Kullu, Mandi and Palampur. You won’t have to come through Pathankot as Manali is on east of Dharamshala whereas Pathankot is on the west. The distance is about 250 kms and it should take you about four hours by car.
Shimla to Dharamshala by road
From Shimla to Dharamshala by the shortest route it would be about 250 kms and it should take you about four and a half hours by car. Bus service is also available.
Chamba to Dharamshala by road
Chamba is near Dalhousie and it is only about 140 kms away from Dharamshala by the shortest route. You should reach Dharamshala from Chamba by about three and a half hours. Bus service is also available from Chamba to Dharamshala.
To Dharamshala by Rail
The nearest railway station is Pathankot. It is a major railway junction in north India and is connected to most of the major cities in the country. You would get State Transport buses as well as cars for hire from Pathankot.
To Dharamshala by Air
The nearest airport is Gaggal about 13 kms away. But being a small airport at a hill-station, smaller aircrafts ply in this route and flights are few. You might decide to come by air to either Jammu or Amritsar. Both, being major airports, have more flights.
Where to stay—hotels and Guest houses
Dharamshala commanding a large spread out area with a number of suburbs and also being the headquarters of Kangra district, it boasts of quite a large number of hotels spread out all across. Because of its all-seasons nature and many attractions tourist traffic is heavy here. We have listed here 63 government run and private hotels from information collected from public domain. The list has no specific order and we are not in a position to say anything good or bad about any of the entries. Even we would like to say that the list is only an indicative one and may not be fully accurate or totally exhaustive.
Himachal Tourist Development Corporation
Website: hptdc.nic.in; Email ids: dharamshala@hptdc.in
1.    The Dhauladhar, Kotwali Bazar, Dharamsala (H.P.) - 176215. Tel: (01892) 224926, 224927 Fax: 01892 - 22492
2.    The Bhagsu, Mcleodganj, Dharamsala (H.P.) - 176219. Tel: (01892) - 221091, 221092
3.    The Club House, Mcleodganj, Dharamsala (H.P.) - 176219. Tel: (01892) - 220834
4.    The Kashmir House, Dharamsala (H.P.)-176215. Tel: (01892) – 222977
5.    The Kunal, near bus station, Dharamsala (H.P.) - 176215. Tel: (01892) - 223163
Private hotels
1.       Hotel Sapphire, McLeodGanj
2.        Hotel Upper City Heart, Naddi
3.       Hotel Clouds End Villa & Cottages, Naroji Road
4.       Una Comfort Nandini-Dharmshala, Naddi
5.       Leisure Vacations Karnika Resort, Khaniyara Road
6.       G K Conifer, Civil Lines
7.       Imperial Heights Resorts, in the village of Khaniyara
8.       Udechee Huts, near Dal Lake
9.       The Exotica, Khanyara Indru Nag Road, Near Paragliding Point
10.    Victoriya Palace, Dal Lake, Naddi
11.    Hotel Asian Plaza, main Chowk, McLeodGanj
12.    Hotel the Origin, Khaniyara Road, McLeodGanj
13.    Villa Paradisso on Jogiwara Road, McLeodGanj
14.    New Varuni House on Temple Road, McLeodGanj
15.    Greenwoods Inn, Green Valley, DharamKot Road, McLeodGanj
16.     McLeodGanj Homestay, McLeodGanj
17.     Hotel Sahiwa, McLeodGanj
18.    Dharamshala -The Sanctuary – A Sterling Holidays resort, Molhi, Near Norbulingka Sidhpur-Khanyara Road
19.    Hotel Holiday Hill, Dharamshala
20.    Bob’n Barley, near Sunset point, Dharamshala
21.     UNA Comfort Great Himalayan Adventure Resort, McLeodGanj
22.    Snow Crest Inn, near Dal lake
23.    Aveda Dharmshala, overlooking cricket stadium
24.     Hotel Oak Valley, McLeodGanj
25.     Hill Queen, McLeodGanj
26.     Asia Health Resort, Dharamshala
27.     Moon Walk Residency, McLeodGanj
28.     Surya McLeod, McLeodGanj
29.     Hotel Gandhi’s Paradise on Dharamkot Road near starting point of trek route to Triund
30.    Spring Valley Resorts, near Bhagsunag Temple
31.    Hotel Country Lodge, Ramnagar
32.    Hotel Pong View, Cantt. Road, with a view of Pong Dam
33.     Hotel Morainic Hills in Bhgsunag
34.     The Horizon Villa South, McLeodGanj
35.    9 Chimes, near Bhagsu Park
36.    Staywell Hotel, Kirpu More, Kotwali Bazar
37.    Snow Crest Inn, near Dal lake
38.     Hotel Valley View Crest, Naddi
39.     Himgiri Resorts, Naddi
40.     Pema Thang Guest House, McLeodGanj
41.     Bella Heights, McLeodGanj
42.     Hotel Deodar Villa, McLeodGanj
43.     Hotel Amandeep, McLeodGanj
44.     Hotel Pink House, McLeodGanj
45.    Pause Dwelling Place, McLeodGanj
46.     Hotel Highland, Bhagsu, McLeodGanj
47.    Hotel Centre Point, near Dal lake
48.    Aakriti Hotel, Cantt. Road
49.    Hotel Anand Palace, McLeodGanj
50.    Hotel Grand Hill, McLeodGanj
51.    Hotel Sahima, Naddi Road
52.    Vikrant Hotel & Restaurant, Bhagsunag, McLeodGanj
53.     Hotel Eco Nest, Bhagsunag, McLeodGanj
54.     Ess & Bee Resort, Dal Lake
55.     Pawan Guest House, McLeodGanj
56.    Hotel Anuj Residency, Bhagsunag, McLeodGanj
57.    Hotel Whispering Pines, Village Kalapul
58.    Sky Pie Guest House, Bhagsu
Most of the private hotels and a few government run hotels are located in the upper reaches of Dharamshala and locations are usually chosen to offer a grand Dhauladhar view or valley view from the hotel.
Climate, Altitude and best time to visit Dharamshala
The altitude of Dharamshala is between 4000 and 5000 feet with its famous suburb McLeodGanj lying at about 6500 feet. Because of proximity of snowline temperature falls below zero degree C during winter but during June temperature rises as high as 38 degrees C. During winter it snows and heavy woolens and jackets for protection from wind are needed. Rains are heavy here and this region records reportedly the second highest rainfall in India. With such variation in weather conditions and proximity of snow peaks, Dharamshala is a specially endowed hill-station in the Himalayas to visit.
This is a kind of all-season hill station with snowy winter from December to February for snow lovers, comfortable with flowers blooming from March to June for most tourists, heavy rains in the hills during July and August for the romantic and fresh green valley with temperature dipping for trekking, paragliding and other sightseeing during September to November. Predictably, March to June is the tourist season not only for Dharamshala but for most hill-stations in Indian Himalayas and so is the most crowded period of the year.
To me highlight of March to June would be the blooming flowers but I would miss the heavily snow-clad mountains so near in winter and also the freshly washed air and sparkling green of the forests of post-rains pre-winter period. Though heavy rains in such environment might feel romantic for a few days, but you would miss most other attractions of the place as also moving amongst the hills as road condition would be unpredictable.
What to see and do at Dharamshala
Outsiders visit Dharamshala for tourism and for work. But even if a person had come for work he may find some time to go around and relax. Dharamshala has markets for shopping, temples for religious minded, Tibetan Center as a special attraction for all, adjoining attractive scenic spots, comfortable trekking routes, adventure sports such as paragliding and other natural attractions. If you go for an outing or work, you would have something for you in and around the city to give you pleasure.
Places of tourist interest at Dharamshala
Dhauladhar: In suitable weather, preferably between March and June, one could undertake a daylong trek to Dhauladhar snow point from Dharamshala.
Triund:  This is a hill point about 9 kms from McLeodGanj and is called the Jewel of Dharamshala because of its great view. It is one day’s trek from McLeodGanj through very scenic route.
McLeodGanj: This suburb of Dharamshala is about 5 kms from Dharamshala and is situated in the upper reaches of the Dhauladhar spur. Its altitude being higher the British preferred this place for stay. Old constructions still exist here. The scenic beauty from here is also excellent. But the most important factor making McLeodGanj an international tourist destination is the 14th Dalai Lama who moved Tibet in exile administration from Mussorie to this place and subsequently influx of Tibetan refugees and Tibetan language students made McLeodGanj the Little Lhasa.
Kangra art museum: This is in Kotwali Bazar and an important tourist attraction. Here rare artifacts dating back to 5th century are displayed along with Kangra’s famous miniature paintings and sculpture.
Kunal Pathri: It is a 3 km walk from Dharamshala to a temple through picturesque tea gardens.
Cricket stadium: The International cricket stadium is beautifully positioned with a grand view of the Dhauladhar.
Dal Lake: This lake is about 11 kms from Dharamshala and surrounded by  Deodars, is a beautiful scenic spot popular for picnickers.
Bhagsunath: This is an ancient temple with nearby fresh springs and famous slate quarries. This place is only 11 kms away from Dharamshala and a favorite picnic spot.
Chinmaya Tapovan: is an ashram complex established by late Swami Chinmayananda. It is 10 km from Dharamshala on the banks of the rivulet Bindusaras.
Temples: The old temples of Jwalamukhi, Chamunda Devi and Brijeshwari Devi are close to Dharamshala.
Nurpur: 66 kms away are the old fort of Nurpur and the famous temple of Brijraj.
Bir and Billing: Bir has Buddhist monasteries and fine Tibetan handicrafts. Billing is 14 km from Bir at a higher altitude. Billing is the take-off site and Bir is the landing site for paragliders. Bir has an arena of 200 km for high altitude and cross country paraglider flying, and is considered one of the best in the world for paragliding. Bir and Billing offer spectacular scenic beauty.
Local People
The local people are accommodative and helpful. Generally the city of Dharamshala is easygoing, though due to modernization, typed characteristics are creeping in.
Activities
Trekking: Apart from 1 day’s snow line trekking to Dhauladhar, there are other trekking routes. One can trek to McLeodGanj, Chamba, Bharmour, Indrahara and Kareri Lake among others.
Rock climbing: During May June, rock climbing can be done in Dhauladhar.
Paragliding: Dharamshala is famous for paragliding and the Bir Billing paragliding locations earned world fame for this adventure sport.
Walking & sightseeing: Most tourists won’t undertake though the adventure sports and rather enjoy the scenic beauty while walking on the mountain roads or occupy themselves with sightseeing.
Nearby places
Kangra, Chamba, Dalhousie, Bharmour, Karera lake are all nearby places with tourist attractions. Some of these are popular and some not so much, but all are accessible easily by car, or on foot.
Ideal for
Summer holiday visits, family visits, adventure sports, winter sports, or plain relaxing away from the madding crowds. There are times and places in Dharamshala for tourists of all inclinations including honeymoon couples of course.
Parting words
When you approach Dharamshala by road, a little before entering the city you would be struck by the breathtaking view of Dhauladhar over the tall Deodars and soon you would notice on the right first signs of Dharamshala on low hillsides.
Himachal Pradesh Himalayas - Dharamshala shows up
Dharamshala shows up

Within a short time you would be traveling along city roads lined up by multistoried buildings and well-stocked shops. That is Kotwali Bazar at lower Dharamshala. Most of the offices are located in this area and the major bus terminus is also here only. But this is the central Dharamshala so to say. As you move nearer to the Dhauladhar along a rising and turning road you would start to feel less crowded with space around opening up and majestic Dhauladhar coming nearer enchanting you.
Wherever you decide to stay, you would be able to see Dhauladhar and within ten to fifteen kms you would reach the suburbs peaceful amidst pristine nature. The nearness of the snow line, massive snow peaks and places to stay and see at various altitudes nearby along with its unique all-season climate make Dharamshala a more than one visit destination. 
 


Links
1.    Himachal Pradesh govt. page on Dharamshala tourism: http://himachaltourism.gov.in/post/dharamshala.aspx
2.    Himachal Pradesh Tourist Development Corporation: http://www.hptdc.nic.in/cir0302.htm
4.    Wiki travel guide: http://wikitravel.org/en/Dharamsala
5.    On hill resorts of India: http://www.hillresortsinindia.com/dharamsala.html
6.    On Dharamshala hotels: http://www.dharamshalahotels.iwax.com/